Right after a fraudulent transfer, reporting, freezing payment, and preserving evidence need to happen almost simultaneously to limit the loss.
Right after transferring money to an account you suspect is fraudulent, reporting, freezing the payment, and preserving evidence all need to happen almost at once to limit the damage. Many people lose time figuring out who to call first, when to check the Account Information service, and what else to do if they've also handed over personal information.
This list lines up eight steps in the order that tends to matter most, starting right after the transfer. Steps that need to happen together, the 112 report and the freeze request, sit side by side, while steps that can wait a little, like preserving evidence or checking every account, come later. The last step is about spotting the follow-up scam that often shows up after you report.
How to Read This
- Haven't reported yet? Start with steps 1 and 2 right now.
- Already reported and requested a freeze? Move to 3-5 to build up your evidence.
- If you also gave up an ID or a verification code, don't skip step 6.
- Procedures and contact points can change, confirm the latest with each agency's official channel before you act.
01
<p>If you've transferred money to an account you suspect is fraudulent, or only just realized it, speed matters more than anything else right now. Call 112 immediately and report the incident along with the transfer time and the recipient's account number. Once you're connected, follow the order the operator walks you through, that's the fastest way to move. Even if you're not fully certain a transfer happened and only have a suspicious situation, it's safer to file the report anyway. At this stage, filing the report comes first, don't try to guess whether you'll get the money back, and note the case number or the officer's name so you can reference it when you talk to your bank next.</p>
02
<p>Separately from the 112 report, contact the bank you transferred from directly and request a payment freeze. Don't just wait on in-app chat, use the dedicated fraud line or emergency button at the official number. Having your own account number, the recipient's account number, the transfer time, and the transaction number ready cuts the call way down. If it's after hours, check for a 24-hour fraud-report line, and if you hit a long automated menu, stay on until you reach the fraud report option instead of hanging up. Once it's filed, make sure to get a case number, since you'll need to give it to the receiving bank or the FSS later. (Procedure as of September 2026; details vary by bank.)</p>
03
<p>If the bank you sent money from and the one the other party used are different banks, you need to file a separate incident report with the receiving bank too, or the freeze won't fully take effect. Have the bank name, account number, and transfer date, time, and amount ready, and call the official number you looked up yourself, through a search or the bank's app, not one the caller gave you. It's worth asking the receiving bank's call center for a confirmation of filing or a case number. Skipping this step after filing only with the sending bank can let a withdrawal go through on the other end, so double-check you've filed with both banks.</p>
04
<p>Relying on memory alone for transfer details can make your report or later statements harder to keep straight. Look up and save or request a transfer record that shows the transaction number, through the Account Information service, your bank's app, or online banking. Keep both the original file and a screenshot showing the date, amount, account holder's name, and transaction number together, a digital file is more convenient to submit later than a printed slip. This step can wait a bit if you've already filed the report and freeze request, but do it soon, since the lookup screen or how long records stay available can change over time.</p>
05
<p>Messenger threads, texts, and call logs can get harder to find over time, the other party may delete them, or the account may disappear. Capture or save the full conversation so the caller's number, profile photo and name, any links they sent, and whether it was a recorded call are all visible, in case you need it for a police report through the Cyber Crime Reporting System (ECRM). Keep the original, not a cropped or edited version, and it helps to keep a second copy in cloud storage or elsewhere in case you lose the device. Gather this even before you've filed a report, it's worth having ready.</p>
06
<p>If you handed over a copy of your ID, an account password, or a text verification code along with the transfer, that's separate from the payment freeze, report the information exposure too. Check the FSS's FINE website for both exposure registration and identity-theft prevention services. What happens next depends on whether what was exposed was an ID, account details, or a verification code, so it helps to have a clear record of what you shared and when. Skipping this can let the same information be used for a new loan or phone activation, so it's worth handling on the same day as the transfer report.</p>
07
<p>You can't rule out withdrawals or automatic transfers happening on other accounts besides the one you transferred from. Log into the Account Information service to see every account under your name at once and check recent transactions for anything unfamiliar. Check deposit accounts as well as cards and loans, and don't stop at a single look, check again within a few days in case a delayed transaction shows up. If you spot something odd, contact that account's bank right away to request an additional freeze or file a report.</p>
08
<p>A call offering to recover your money for a fee, an advance payment, or a deposit is very likely a second scam on its own. Police and the FSS never ask for money up front as a condition of a refund, so never send more money if you get a call like this. Save the caller's number and account, along with any ad or text message, and add it to your existing report, it helps the investigation. Don't trust a private firm's promise to guarantee recovery, a quiet off-the-books refund, or anyone claiming to be a government official, hang up and verify through 112 or the agency's official number instead.</p>
Here's How to Handle It
If you haven't done anything yet, start with the 112 report in step 1 and the freeze request in step 2, ideally at the same time. If the sending and receiving banks are different, you need step 3 done too for the freeze to actually take effect.
Once the initial response is done, move to steps 4-5 to gather your transfer record and conversation history. If you also gave up an ID or a verification code, check step 6; if you're worried about other accounts, check step 7. Treat any later contact offering a refund as a likely second scam and handle it per step 8.
The procedures and contacts here reflect the time of research, and agency guidance and hours can change, confirm the latest with 112, the FSS, or your bank's official channel before you act.
Frequently asked questions
If I request a payment freeze, do I get my money back right away?
No. A payment freeze only blocks further withdrawal, it doesn't guarantee a refund. Check the actual refund process and outcome through the financial company you filed with or the FSS's official guidance.
Should I call 112 or the bank first?
If it's urgent, it's best to file the 112 report and request the bank's payment freeze at almost the same time. If one call is going to take a while, have someone else, another phone or a family member, handle the other.
Can I report before I've gotten my transaction record?
Yes. Filing the report and requesting the freeze are more urgent than gathering the transaction record. You can fill in the record afterward through the Account Information service or your bank.
What is the Account Information service, and when should I use it?
It's a service that lets you view every account opened under your name in one place. You'll use it both to pull your transfer record and to check all your accounts for odd activity. Since reporting and the freeze are more urgent, use it in the steps that follow.
What else should I do if I also gave up an ID or a verification code?
Separately from the payment-freeze report, register the exposure through the FSS's FINE portal. Leaving it unreported can let the same information be used for a new loan or identity theft.
Should I trust a call offering to help me get a refund?
Not if they ask for a fee or an advance payment. Police and the FSS never ask for money up front as a condition of a refund, and a call like this is very often a second scam.
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